Mandelic Acid is a water-soluble skincare product and with regard to the pores, bacteria and acne, it does most of its work on the surface of the skin and near the opening of the pore. The more it’s rubbed in, the better it works.
I’ve noticed that many estheticians prescribe MS 2x a day. In my clinic, I only do this if the client has folliculitis. When it comes to bacteria at the bottom of the pores, BPO is still king. I see Estheticians posting protocols of MS 2x a day and 5% BPO. Their client’s skin has become sensitized and the clearing process has stalled. My clients see better progress when using MS 1x a day and bump up BPO to 10%. You will clear inflamed acne much faster with the higher strengths of BPO. In addition, I’m always very conscious of giving clients too many steps.
If I am working with a client who is naturally dry or becomes dehydrated easily, I start them on 8% every other day, so that we can work them up to higher doses of BPO. My goal is to clear them as quickly as possible with the least amount of resistance (dehydration). As their skin adapts, we will increase MS strength to lighten pigmentation. If a client has thicker oily skin, I usually start them on mandelic every day. An exception is when a client comes to me from another clinic and is using a higher strength of mandelic without dehydration or irritation.
I start male clients with Pseudofolliculitis barbae on 11% or 15% MS.
I am talking about L Mandelic here. The DL mandelic is cheaper to formulate but doesn’t do the JOB. I provide the best products for my clients. Mandelic is also great for anti-aging as well as acne and folliculitis. It is a true work horse for the skin.