One of the biggest challenges when formulating/using skincare is making sure the ingredients you use are actually penetrating through the skin to get to the areas they need to be for max efficacy. This what my products do. I only use products that reach the areas inside the skin that will produce the result you want and need. Over the counter, products will not do this! They are designed for the general public so if they have any active ingredients, they are so low in the formula they don’t work. Even the most expensive products are the same way.
The very top layer of our skin (the Stratum Corneum) is our protective skin barrier, which consists of multiple layers of corneocytes (epidermal cells that have lost their nucleus), surrounded by a lipid matrix that consists of fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. This water proof barrier is absolutely beautiful when it comes to protecting our skin from environmental aggressors, but on the flip side it doesn’t allow a lot of ingredients we use to penetrate.
Some ingredients can naturally penetrate depending on their molecular weight, lipophilic structure, pH system, and/or electrical charge, but if an active is water-soluble and has a larger molecular weight, it’s likely just sitting on the surface of the skin.
As formulators, we have the ability to potentiate an ingredients penetration capacity by using delivery systems that not only wrap the actives in lipid structures, but also reduce their molecular weight in the nanometer range. Liposomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, and other phospholipid based vehicles can assist us in achieving our cutaneous penetration objectives.
Stop fooling yourself and reach out for serious help with your skin!